Vichyssoise was the third soup in Beulah’s standard repertoire, which she served chilled in the summer months. It’s taken time for me to appreciate cold soup – aside from gazpacho, which I could live on – but I’m coming round. This hit the spot on a hot evening, with a green salad served alongside.
Beulah’s vichyssoise recipe calls for cream or soured cream. I opted for a mix of cream and crème fraiche.
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Adam’s parents Freddy and Beulah ate regularly at Trattoria Trevi, an Italian place on Ballards Lane until it closed, reopening a few months later as a Turkish restaurant. They immediately became regulars there as well. The Durum became a place for family birthdays and celebrations. Beulah always ordered kisir followed by fried liver or lamb chops. This kisir is based on their recipe.
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Baked apples are an underrated dessert in my opinion. They take minutes to prep, are can be served hot or cold, and are healthy to boot. A splash of liqueur (hazelnut works well) before baking, or serving (or both) is a nice touch.
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Along with Omi’s coffee cakes, marmalade tea bread was Beulah’s signature bake. She was a marmalade lover and I always gave her a jar or two from my annual batch.
Otherwise a typical fruit cake, its distinctive, sweet-bitter tang and slightly sticky texture reveals the presence of marmalade. I’d always assumed it was a called a tea bread because it was served with tea, but it turns out the fruit is soaked in strong black tea overnight.
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Chopped egg and onion was a mainstay of Shabbat dinners for Adam when he was a child. He says it’s the combination of cooked and raw onions that made this dish special.
Beulah’s classic chocolate mousse recipe doesn’t call for cream or sugar (aside from what is in the chocolate). On my first attempt, I failed to notice the water added to the chocolate in the bowl. That certainly makes a difference – you need a pourable chocolate mixture to fold the egg whites into, not a thick, Marmite-like paste.
Adam says, “In my memory, these were famed across north London. I can picture mum melting Menier dark chocolate in a bowl over simmering water. You could smell it before you could see it, and when you saw it your hope that chocolate mousse was indeed on the menu was realised.”
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The recipe for these flourless coffee cakes comes from Adam’s German grandmother Lottie.
It’s a simple one, aside from the beating and folding. With only four ingredients and no leavening agent, Omi’s coffee cakes rely on the egg whites for their light, airy quality.
Out of curiosity I searched online, but couldn’t find another recipe like them. The closest was bocca di dama, but made bite-sized and left undecorated.
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This recipe offers a fresh take on my go-to tomato soup. Basil is added at three points – sautéed with the onions, simmered with the tomatoes,stirred in just before serving – and its sweet, peppery flavour shines through.
At family meals, Beulah usually offered a choice of soup – chicken soup with kneidlach and tomato soup with basil for the vegetarians. (Though it was pretty common for people to park their principles for the evening so as not to miss out on Beulah’s chicken soup.)
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I’m a sucker for lemon desserts, and have yet to meet one I don’t like. That said, Beulah’s lemon mousse is near the top of the list.
On family occasions, she always made two or three desserts, in sufficient quantity that people could try them all. While her chocolate mousse and sticky toffee pudding were the fan favourites, when lemon mousse was on offer I always went for it, at least for round one… 😉
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Crumpets crisped in curry butter then topped with a poached egg is a winning combination. Adam’s mum made it for Lyra when she stayed a few days with her. After Lyra reported how delicious it was, we started making it as well.
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For family gatherings, Adam’s mum Beulah often served an array of salads and cold meats. This potato salad with grain mustard always featured.
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This heat wave has put me right off hot drinks. If I don’t have a coffee by 9am, that’s my caffeine fix out for the day. Maybe that’s what made me think of coffee jelly – one of many culinary novelties I experienced while living in Japan.
I’m not tucking into coffee jelly all day long, but it makes a great summer dessert…
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Crustless quiche is a staple weekday meal round here. Broccoli and cheese is my usual filling, but anything goes.
I sometimes fry some bacon or chorizo with the onion, or add strips of ham or smoked salmon.
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Rich and flavoursome, long, slow cooking reduces the sherry and vinegar to a sticky glaze.
We’ve been making this Delia Smith classic for years, and it came as a surprise to discover I hadn’t yet added it to the site.
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Ratouille is a classic French vegetable stew of aubergines, peppers, courgette, onions and tomatoes, served as a side dish or with pasta.
I’ve tried a number of recipes for ratatouille over the years. Some insist that each vegetable is cooked separately before being layered together, but I’ve found that to be an unnecessary amount of faff.
The main thing is to cook the vegetables in the correct order, avoid overcooking, keep the seasonings simple, and allow the ratatouille to rest before eating at room temperature (or reheating).
Peanut butter was a lunchbox staple when I was growing up in Canada — peanut butter and jam sandwiches, peanut-butter-filled celery sticks, peanut butter cookies…
With the rise of nut allergies and “nut-free” schools, peanut butter has fallen off the menu, and these peanut butter and jam thumbprint cookies are now a weekend treat.
Pav bhaji is one of those dishes you need to try for yourself to discover how satisfying it is.
I first encountered pav bhaji at a street food market. After doing a complete circuit of the food on offer, I opted for what looked to be a curry sandwich.
The bun (pav) was toasted, buttered and warm. The curry (bhaji) was thick, mashed — almost spreadable — and topped with red onion, coriander leaves, and a pat of butter.
It was utterly delicious and spot-hitting. Continue reading
My husband loves carrot halwa and always orders it when we go for an Indian meal.
I agree that it’s less sweet than many Indian desserts, which counts in its favour. But having tasted his portion any number of times, I never once regretted ordering the kulfi.
This all changed when we started making carrot halwa at home… Continue reading
Penne a la vodka was all the rage when I first moved to London. After ordering it in restaurants, I had a go at making it myself.
There wasn’t an internet to refer to, but it wasn’t complicated to work out what was in it – tomatoes, onion, garlic, chilli, cream… and vodka.
For some reason, I had the idea that the vodka should be set alight like the brandy on a Christmas pudding.
I’d cook down the tomato sauce, then pour the vodka over top and set a match to it. Blue flames would dance impressively across the surface and die down, after which I’d stir through the cream. Continue reading
According to my daughter, these courgette fries are like “vegetarian calamari”. I know what she means.
While no one would confuse the texture of squid with courgette, they are similarly satisfying in flavour and crunch. And being baked, they are reasonably healthy as well.
I first ate them at a Vancouver restaurant called Las Tapas that I adored, and have been making my own version ever since.
Shakshouka – eggs poached in a spicy tomato sauce – is one of our favourite Sunday brunches. It’s a good, quick supper too, and something I’ll think to make when feeding two.
When that’s the case, I preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C) and make the sauce in my cast iron frying pan. After cracking the eggs over the sauce, I pop the frying pan in the oven (uncovered) for about five minutes until the eggs are cooked through.
Lightly cooked green beans and peas on a bed of fresh peashoots with walnuts and a miso-sake dressing makes a fresh, healthy lunch.
I go with whatever combination of beans I have to hand – mangetout and podded edamame are both good and give an interesting visual and texture contrast. Continue reading
Chocolate pear puddings are a good recipe to have up your sleeve when you hadn’t been planning to make dessert, but pester power prevails.
They’re quick to make, use basic store cupboard ingredients, and are definitely more than the sum of their parts.
Other soft fruits work as well – I’ve made these puddings with raspberries and bananas when I was pear-less and they were just as nice.
I have two spinach soups in my repetoire – this soothing, mellow one with leeks, potatoes and a splash of cream – and a spicier, Asian-influenced soup with citrus and ginger.
Making Japanese curry from scratch for the first time was the high point of my week.
I discovered Japanese curry when I lived in Tokyo after finishing uni, and became an instant convert. I love the thick, slightly sweet taste of the sauce, and the way it sticks to the vegetables like a thick coat of paint.
What makes Japanese curry unique is the roux, which is sold in thick bars. I’ve always lived where Asian ingredients are easy to come by, and usually have a packet of Japanese curry in the cupboard.
You fry, then simmer, your veg, meat or tofu to the point of tenderness, dissolve a chunk of roux in the pan and instant curry goodness ensues. Continue reading
I adore kung pao chicken – the hotter and more mouth numbing it is, the better I like it. However, the rest of the family don’t share my tolerance for hot food.
To make kung pao chicken the whole family can enjoy, I use a few dried chillies for base heat when cooking, remove the girls’ portions, then stir through additional fresh chillies for the grown-ups.
There has been a fennel bulb languishing in the veggie tray for ages. It’s been there for so long, I can no longer remember my reason for buying it.
I now realise that it was waiting for its moment to shine in this rocket and fennel salad with tahini-ginger dressing and toasted seeds.
Comfort food is having a bit of a moment around here, which makes sense. And things don’t get much more comforting than bread and butter pudding.
This one is made with a six-pack of hot cross buns that were inexplicably overlooked on Easter weekend. Continue reading
This is a truly excellent chocolate chip cookie recipe. One of the things I like best is how a modest list of ingredients produces such a stellar result.
Even before these locked-down days, I’d come across a recipe with 250g best-quality chocolate, 4 eggs, two types of sugar, and bag of M&Ms thrown in for good measure, and think “of course that’s going to taste good – it’s a bunch of rich, sweet things mooshed together.”
We’ve made these chocolate chip cookies with plain and self-raising flour (no baking soda), wholewheat, and on one occasion khorasan flour. Dark chips, light chips, butterscotch chips or chopped baking chocolate. Whatever nuts we have on hand, or no nuts at all.
Microwave banana pudding has been a little spot of brightness in these worrying days, scratching a sticky toffee pudding itch we hadn’t known was there.
We’ve made this recipe from the BBC Good Food website four times in the past three weeks. It’s a great way to use up old bananas, takes 15 minutes start to finish, cooks while you have dinner, and tastes fabulous.
I leave the chicken soup with kneidlach to my mother-in-law – a marvellous cook whose chicken soup draws superlatives from anyone who has the good fortune to taste it, whose fluffy kneidlach could potentially float up from the broth in their airy pillowiness.
But faced with a chicken soupless Passover this year, I dusted off my kneidlach making skills and took one for the team…
Crumpets are one of those British foods I’ve never warmed to. They somehow manage to be both spongy and rubbery, under- and over-cooked, and despite their blandness, leave me wishing they tasted of less.
Crumpets would never have made my list of things to cook at home, but Lyra was keen so we gave them a try… Continue reading
Turkey soup is as much a part of our family Christmas as the main meal, and is one of those dishes that take me straight back to my childhood. There is no other dish that gives me more comfort.
We ate roast turkey only at Christmas and Thanksgiving, so we couldn’t have had turkey soup that often. But perhaps mum froze the stock and used it throughout the year. (And she also made pretty much the same soup with chicken carcasses or ham bones.) Continue reading
Cobb salad is a classic American main course salad. Chicken, egg, blue cheese and bacon are arranged in strips across a bed of salad greens, providing a healthy punch of protein. Continue reading
Chinese pork and beans is an easy working day dinner, coming together in the time it takes to steam the rice.
The flavours are akin to mapo tofu, though the crisp green beans and peanuts make it a crunchier affair. Continue reading
I love the simplicity of this bran bread recipe. All Bran, dried fruit and milk is left to soften before being mixed with some flour and baked for an hour.
It is essentially a baked bowl of soggy cereal, but what a difference that baking makes.
The resulting loaf is toothsome, moist and flavourful. “It’s like a cross between malt bread and Christmas cake,” my daughter said, and she’s spot on.
My mother’s borscht was a vegetarian, austere affair. It was “cheap as chips” as the British say and the recipe made gallons. In my student days, I could live on a pot of borscht for a week.
This beef version is a richer, rib-sticking affair, more akin to goulash. Continue reading
I make bran muffins most weekends, but occasionally I mix things up with lemon poppyseed or spiced plum muffins.
Plum and ginger always work well together. I love the extra hit the preserved ginger brings, but they are also nice without it. Continue reading
Cabbage and corn slaw is an excellent accompaniment to Mexican dishes like enchiladas and burritos, providing a welcome crunchy contrast. Continue reading
Gyoza are a family favourite, and the four of us can easily get through a large panful for dinner.
They are both steamed and pan-fried, resulting in a juicy interior, silky soft sides and a crisp, golden bottom.
I usually go with the classic pork and cabbage filling, but they are also very good with minced raw prawn substituted for the ground pork.
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Ten More Bites 