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Macaroni with leeks and bacon

10 Jul

I haven’t made macaroni and cheese in years. It was in regular rotation when the girls were younger, but we seem to have all forgotten about it.

According to Adam, this version with leeks and bacon is the one he remembers Beulah making. It’s a more grown-up dish with the leeks and bacon adding welcome flavour and complexity. I’m going to add a dollop of mustard to the cheese sauce next time I make it.

Macaroni with leeks and bacon

  • 1/4 lb (350g) macaroni
  • 3 small leeks, cleaned and sliced thinly crosswise
  • 6oz (175g) streaky bacon
  • 2oz (50g) butter

For the sauce:

  • 2oz (50g) butter
  • 1 1/2oz (40g) plain flour
  • 1 pint (570ml) milk
  • 6oz (175g) grated cheddar

For the topping:

  • 2 Tb Parmesan cheese
  • 1 Tb breadcrumbs
  • a dash of cayenne
  1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C).
  2. Bring a large pot of salted water to the boil. Add the macaroni and cook until al dente. Drain and tip into a buttered casserole.
  3. While the pasta is cooking, melt 50g of butter in a frying pan over a medium flame.
  4. Sauté the leeks and bacon until softened, then combine with the pasta. 
  5. In a medium saucepan over a low flame, melt 50g of butter. Whisk in the flour, then slowly add the milk and simmer until thickened.
  6. Stir in the cheddar cheese. Remove from the heat and season with salt and pepper.
  7. Pour the sauce over the pasta mixture. Sprinkle the top with Parmesan, breadcrumbs and cayenne.
  8. Bake for 30 minutes or until golden and bubbling.

Lemon fantasy

4 Jul

Lemon fantasy is the most retro thing I have ever cooked. Adam has fond childhood memories of this dessert, which was a staple along with chocolate mousse at their Friday night dinners. In his words, “the combination of fluffy mousse with the jelly topping seemed like a marvel.”

Lemon jelly proved elusive to track down. Raspberry, lime, mango, blueberry… not a problem. I managed to find a packet eventually, but will be exploring new flavours of fantasy if I make this again. (Which I probably will. I now own a jelly mould, and it is a fun dessert.)

Beulah always served lemon fantasy with tinned mandarin segments and cream, so I did as well.

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Gefilte fish

30 Jun

I first ate gefilte fish in the UK, and didn’t realise that in most of the world they are poached, not fried. It’s a British-Jewish thing to fry them, apparently. Having tried both, I’m definitely team fried gefilte fish, though I can take them or leave them.

I can recall Beulah serving gefilte fish only a couple of times. As a fish hater she may have opted to buy them in, though that wasn’t her style. I’d usually encounter them on platters at catered Jewish events, where little Lyra (another fish hater) would mistake them for falafel.

This recipe was in among Beulah’s handwritten ones. I was intrigued by the pinch of cinnamon and gave it a go. I don’t think I’ve eaten fresh gefilte fish before – they were delicious, warm, light and sort of fluffy.

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Carrot and raisin salad

29 Jun

Carrot and raisin salad is another regular in Beulah’s repetoire. She kept things simple and all the flavours coming singing through. (I’d be tempted to add green onion, sunflower seeds, grated ginger and orange juice to the dressing etc)

In general, the ingredients that are straightforward in her recipes, but the technique can be fiddly, at least by my standards. Not with this carrot and raisin salad though – the most time consuming bit is grating the carrots.

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Beulah’s cheesecake

26 Jun

This is a great, classic baked cheesecake. Not some fluffy, whipped cream concoction where you can barely detect the cheese – this one is dense and silky smooth, and flavoured only with lemon zest so the cream cheese flavour comes through.

The gingersnap crust contrasts beautifully with the filling. When I make it next, I’m going to double the amount and bake it a little longer (until firm).

Beulah always served her cheesecake garnished with frosted grapes, so I’ve included the recipe for those here as well.

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Bubble and squeak

24 Jun

Beulah loved bubble and squeak, but the family were less keen. She would have appreciated the practical common sense of the recipe as a way to use up leftover veg.

I followed Beulah’s recipe rigorously, but were I to make it again I’d add a beaten egg or some grated cheese to the mixture to help bind it together. The outside crisped up nicely, but it was still quite soft in the middle. Though maybe it’s meant to be that way?

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Beulah’s summer pudding

19 Jun

Summer pudding is a classic British dessert. Beulah made the first one I ever ate, and given her cooking prowess I assumed it was a MasterChef level dish. I was surprised to learn it has only three ingredients — berries, sliced white bread and sugar.

This picture looks like a crime scene but it tastes delicious. I hope to take a better one next time I make it…;-)

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Baked apples

19 Jun

Baked apples are an underrated dessert in my opinion. They take minutes to prep, are can be served hot or cold, and are healthy to boot. A splash of liqueur (hazelnut works well) before baking, or serving (or both) is a nice touch.

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Marmalade tea bread

18 Jun

Along with Omi’s coffee cakes, marmalade tea bread was Beulah’s signature bake. She was a marmalade lover and I always gave her a jar or two from my annual batch.

Otherwise a typical fruit cake, its distinctive, sweet-bitter tang and slightly sticky texture reveals the presence of marmalade. I’d always assumed it was a called a tea bread because it was served with tea, but it turns out the fruit is soaked in strong black tea overnight.

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Chopped egg and onion

18 Jun

Chopped egg and onion was a mainstay of Shabbat dinners for Adam when he was a child. He says it’s the combination of cooked and raw onions that made this dish special.

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Tomato soup with basil

14 Jun

This recipe offers a fresh take on my go-to tomato soup. Basil is added at three points – sautéed with the onions, simmered with the tomatoes,stirred in just before serving – and its sweet, peppery flavour shines through.

At family meals, Beulah usually offered a choice of soup – chicken soup with kneidlach and tomato soup with basil for the vegetarians. (Though it was pretty common for people to park their principles for the evening so as not to miss out on Beulah’s chicken soup.)

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Lemon mousse

9 Jun

I’m a sucker for lemon desserts, and have yet to meet one I don’t like. That said, Beulah’s lemon mousse is near the top of the list.

On family occasions, she always made two or three desserts, in sufficient quantity that people could try them all. While her chocolate mousse and sticky toffee pudding were the fan favourites, when lemon mousse was on offer I always went for it, at least for round one… 😉

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Devilled crumpets and eggs

4 Jun

Crumpets crisped in curry butter then topped with a poached egg is a winning combination. Adam’s mum made it for Lyra when she stayed a few days with her. After Lyra reported how delicious it was, we started making it as well.

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New potatoes in mustard vinaigrette

25 Jan

For family gatherings, Adam’s mum Beulah often served an array of salads and cold meats. This potato salad with grain mustard always featured.

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Coffee jelly

20 Jun

This heat wave has put me right off hot drinks. If I don’t have a coffee by 9am, that’s my caffeine fix out for the day. Maybe that’s what made me think of coffee jelly – one of many culinary novelties I experienced while living in Japan.

I’m not tucking into coffee jelly all day long, but it makes a great summer dessert…

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Crustless broccoli quiche

20 Dec

Crustless quiche is a staple weekday meal round here. Broccoli and cheese is my usual filling, but anything goes.

I sometimes fry some bacon or chorizo with the onion, or add strips of ham or smoked salmon.

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Chicken with sherry

14 Dec
chicken cooked in sherry

Rich and flavoursome, long, slow cooking reduces the sherry and vinegar to a sticky glaze.

We’ve been making this Delia Smith classic for years, and it came as a surprise to discover I hadn’t yet added it to the site.

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Rocket and fennel salad with toasted seeds

20 Apr

There has been a fennel bulb languishing in the veggie tray for ages. It’s been there for so long, I can no longer remember my reason for buying it.

I now realise that it was  waiting for its moment to shine in this rocket and fennel salad with tahini-ginger dressing and toasted seeds.

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Hot cross bun and butter pudding

15 Apr

hot cross bun and butter pudding

Comfort food is having a bit of a moment around here, which makes sense. And things don’t get much more comforting than bread and butter pudding.

This one is made with a six-pack of hot cross buns that were inexplicably overlooked on Easter weekend. Continue reading

Chocolate chip cookies

13 Apr

chocolate chip cookies

This is a truly excellent chocolate chip cookie recipe. One of the things I like best is how a modest list of ingredients produces such a stellar result.

Even before these locked-down days, I’d come across a recipe with 250g best-quality chocolate, 4 eggs, two types of sugar, and bag of M&Ms thrown in for good measure, and think “of course that’s going to taste good – it’s a bunch of rich, sweet things mooshed together.”

We’ve made these chocolate chip cookies with plain and self-raising flour (no baking soda), wholewheat, and on one occasion khorasan flour. Dark chips, light chips, butterscotch chips or chopped baking chocolate. Whatever nuts we have on hand, or no nuts at all.

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Microwave banana pudding

13 Apr

microwave banana pudding

Microwave banana pudding has been a little spot of brightness in these worrying days, scratching a sticky toffee pudding itch we hadn’t known was there.

We’ve made this recipe from the BBC Good Food website four times in the past three weeks. It’s a great way to use up old bananas, takes 15 minutes start to finish, cooks while you have dinner, and tastes fabulous.

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Spiced plum muffins

21 Oct

spiced plum muffins

I make bran muffins most weekends, but occasionally I mix things up with lemon poppyseed or spiced plum muffins.

Plum and ginger always work well together. I love the extra hit the preserved ginger brings, but they are also nice without it. Continue reading

Warm cannellini bean salad

6 Jun

This warm cannellini bean salad is of those happy marriages of ingredients that are just meant for each other.

The combination of colours, textures and flavours – floury beans, silky rocket and salty pancetta, loosely bound in a lemony crème fraiche dressing – is a delight. Continue reading

Roasted kale, carrot and apple salad

5 Apr

Roasted kale, carrot and apple salad

I have a salad for lunch most days. When it’s cold wet like the last few days have been, I make it a warm one.

The kale is transformed by its time in the oven, softening and developing a deeper, woodsy flavour that contrasts nicely with the crisp apple and toasted seeds.

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Parsnip soup with sautéed greens

5 Mar

parsnip soup with sautéed greens

I’ve made this parsnip soup with sautéed greens so regularly for so many years, that it was a surprise to realise that it wasn’t on this website. Continue reading

Lemon poppy seed muffins

14 Jan

I almost always make muffins for breakfast on Saturday morning.

For years, my go-to recipe has been these blueberry bran muffins, but in last few months lemon poppyseed muffins have been giving them a run for their money. Continue reading

Trifle

22 Dec

I make trifle only once a year – over the Christmas holiday, when a big creamy, custardy, boozy bowl of indulgence seems like just what Santa ordered…;-)

This is a very different trifle to my Grandma Ivy’s, which calls for red and green jello, candied fruit and optional coconut macaroons(!).

(If I’m to realise my ambition of cooking every family recipe in Fern’s Food, I’ll have to give it a go some Christmas, but we’re keeping it classic this year.) Continue reading

Endive, pear, walnut and blue cheese salad

19 Dec

Endive, pear, walnut and blue cheese salad

This is one of my favourite winter salads, especially at this time of year.

Fresh and light without being worthy, endive, pear, walnut and blue cheese salad is nice counterpoint to the the rich food we’ve  been indulging in.

It’s also delicious, with each ingredient bringing something to the party. Continue reading

Waffles

5 Sep

waffles

This is Ten More Bites first-ever guest post, brought to you by my daughter Lyra:

Hello! This is Lyra, writing this blog post today about how to make waffles.

We love to make waffles for breakfast and so long as you have a waffle iron it takes no more then fifteen minutes.

P.S. this recipe makes six large waffles…

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Sweet potato fries

24 Aug

Sweet potato fries

When the girls were small, I’d usually have a bag of oven chips in the freezer to serve alongside fish fingers and peas when they had friends round for tea.

Now that our fish finger days are behind us, I almost never make chips (oven or otherwise), but I’ll occasionally rustle up a tray of sweet potato fries. Continue reading

Cornish pasties

13 Jul

Cornish pasties

I’ve gone for Cornish pasties to represent England in this year’s World Cup cook-off.

Yes, it’s a shameless crowd-pleaser, but I suspect that England needs all the help it can get – both in the kitchen and on the pitch.

Strictly speaking, if it’s not made in Cornwall, it’s not a Cornish pasty.

But if I’d made these in Penzance instead of London, I think they might pass muster.  Continue reading

Sweet potato, chorizo and red pepper

2 May


Sweet potato, red pepper and chorizo tossed in a simple vinaigrette is a very satisfying combination of ingredients.

I usually serve it as a simple, weekday dinner over couscous, but it also works nicely as a warm salad. Continue reading

Cream of cauliflower soup

5 Mar

cream of cauliflower soup

This cream of cauliflower soup has the silkiest texture. I sometimes omit the cream– replacing it with more milk – and it still comes out rich and smooth.

Horseradish combines beautifully with cauliflower. Along with the lemon juice, it adds a bit of heat and brightness to the mix. Continue reading

Broccoli spread

28 Feb

confit broccoli

I wasn’t sure what to call this broccoli concoction…

It started out as broccoli confit, but I’ve cut so much on the oil that the name no longer fits. I thought of broccamole, but decided the lack of avocados ruled that one out.

Patés are too smooth, dips are for dipping. Which led me to “spread” – so broccoli spread it is.

Whatever the name, it’s very moreish stuff. I serve it as an appetiser on toasted sourdough or crackers. I also eat it with a spoon straight out of the fridge. Continue reading

Cauliflower and white bean stew

20 Feb

Cauliflower and white bean stew

Cauliflower and white bean stew is a one of those no-fuss, mid-week meals I’ve been making for years.

There’s something vaguely Mediterranean about it – Spanish or maybe Greek – which can be played up by adding smoked paprika, or a scattering of crumbled feta. But generally I just make it as below.

It took awhile for the girls to warm to it (courgette has always been a hard sell for some reason), but they eat it happily now. Continue reading

Green beans with toasted almonds and lime

4 Feb

green beans with toasted almonds and lime

I love green beans, and have some great ways of preparing them – flash fried with garlic and chilli, steam-fried with mustard seeds and ginger, or tossed in an Indian-inspired dressing – but these green beans with toasted almonds and lime stands up to any of them.

The idea comes from my friend Debbie, who remembers being served delicious green beans dressed with lime when she was a student in Paris. Continue reading

Squid and fennel salad with croutons

27 Jan

Seafood fennel salad with croutons

Squid and fennel salad has become my go-to dinner party starter. Delicious and a little bit special, you can do nearly all the prep in advance, simply tossing the last few elements together when it is time to serve. Continue reading

Panettone pudding

19 Jan

panettone pudding

I’m not a fan of bread and butter pudding, though I’ve warmed to it somewhat over the years. (As a child, I considered it a personal insult when mum served it for dessert.)

And I’ve never seen the point of panettone – that overrated, inevitably stale and dry-as-dust, identity crisis of a cake-bread, whose packaging is the best thing going for it.

But bring the two together in the form of panettone pudding, and it really is a case of two wrongs making a right… Continue reading

Winter slaw with poppy seed dressing

15 Jan

winter slaw with poppy seed dressing

With its bright, contrasting colours, and pomegranate seeds twinkling like little gems, winter slaw is a pretty salad.

I can find pomegranate seeds annoying. The amount of fibrous pit you grind through to release the juicy flesh detracts from my eating enjoyment.

But those pits are of no consequence in this crunchy riot of texture and flavour. Continue reading

Celeriac and dill soup

11 Dec

celeriac dill soup

This celeriac and dill soup has a wonderful nutty taste and velvety texture.

I usually stir through a splash of cream at the end, which gives it an added richness, but it’s perfectly nice without it.
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